Where Cretan Eagles Dare

September 2008
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Today we would be entering a new world, although we were unaware of it at that moment. In our continuing search for new areas and places to offer our visitors, we had come across something spectacular. Today we were to visit the area concerned and see what the eastern slopes of Psiloritis had to offer.

Psiloritis, or Mount Ida, at 8057 feet (2,456 m, 35? 13 38.45? N, 24? 46 15.22″ E ) is the highest mountain in Crete, and is over 1000 metres higher than Ben Nevis. The great Cretan writer Nikos Kazantzakis made mention of it often and it is regarded by many Cretan people as a potent symbol of the island. Although disputed by the claims of the Dhiktean cave on the nearby Lassithi range, the cave of Idaion Andron is also reputed to be the birthplace of Zeus and the continent of Europe is named for Europa, one of his amorous conquests. A romantic interlude, which as any Cretan will tell you, happened on the south coast of the island. It is also notable as the location of the trek following the abduction of General Von Kreipe by Cretan resistance and Special Operations Executive during World War 2. The film of the events “Ill met by moonlight”, starring Dirk Bogarde, was based on the book by W.Stanley Moss (ISBN 0-304-35259-4).

The journey of 60km to the airport at Heraklion, we observe, is done on “autopilot”. Familiarity, sadly, breeds contempt or at the very least, indifference. The highlight, depending on wind conditions, is the drop through Selenari Gorge, where Griffon Vultures (Gyps fulvus) soar effortlessly on the thermals. Further along the route, the banana and potato vendors of Malia line the side of the same roads, which in summer, will be awash with football shirt clad youngsters and hungover party girls seeking out a “full English breakfast”.

Just past the airport turning we cut south on a new and impressive road, which takes us towards Archanes and Peza, the wine growing region to the south of the capital. We continue south to Agia Varvara and realise that we have sailed past our turning, although we see a spectacular rock monolith which we might otherwise have missed. After the usual questions (and lots of pointing and gestures) we take the road north towards our appointment with Ioannis. The road twisted upward on the eastern slopes of the mountain and we could not resist pulling over to see two tombs, hewn from the rock, on the roadside. As is often the case in Crete, there was no information about them whatsoever. I actually like this aspect of the island because almost nothing is put on a plate for you. If you are interested you have to seek out the information, which can, in turn, lead to other discoveries.

The village had a fabulous church, with a very modern chapel at the entrance. We drove through and asked again for directions at the kafeneion where I was taken to the balcony by the owner. He pointed to the hotel and told me how to get to it. After several attempts to go the short way, and several reversing operations down very small and narrow streets, we finally took the long way and found ourselves at the gate of the suites. Ioannis, the manager, made us most welcome and we were impressed by the standard of furnishing and facilities in such an ostensibly “non-tourist” area. There are only four suites, but with a wonderful pool and a spa centre, it is a perfect location for a relaxing holiday. It is also centrally located for exploring the island and ideally situated for seeing the major archaeological sites.

In the great tradition of Cretan “filoxenia”, we were, naturally, invited to join the family for a meal at the hotel taverna. The succulent roast pork, we were informed, had been cooked by the owner and it was served with traditional oven potatoes and a variety of vegetables, dips and salads, washed down with a local red which is bottled specifically for the hotel. Eagles and other birds of prey soared around the area and Ioannis was so familiar with them that he even had individual names for some. It was almost impossible to draw our eyes away from the incredible views across the plain to the distant mountains of the Dikti range, but the time had come to leave and make our way homeward. With simple directions from our host, we were back onto the main road in five minutes and on the outskirts of Heraklion in another ten.

With an area almost the same as England, Crete never fails to have yet another surprise around the next corner. What, I wonder, will next week bring?

For more information on Eastern Crete, interviews and articles, please contact

Steve Moorman
simplycreteholidays ltd
Akti Koundourou & Salaminos 4
72100
Agios Nikolaos
Crete
Greece

tel: (+30) 28410 24101
email: info@simplycreteholidays.co.uk
web: http://www.simplycreteholidays.co.uk